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G.B. Burlotto Barolo 2021

$99.99
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From the producer: Ornament is a crime “, said Adolf Loos. And that which stays away from it, preserving proportion, harmony and recognizability, can rightly be called “classic”. This Barolo is a classic. Sober, rigorous, dynamic, with identity, it immerses you in the aura of its land with a secret force of persuasion.

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 91
"The 2021 Barolo is a super-classic wine in every way. Its aromatics, bright acids and overall depth are those of a wine that punches above its weight. White pepper, mint, slate, crushed rocks, red-toned fruit and citrus all race across the palate. Clean mineral notes and wiry tannins pull it all together on the finish. This overachieving Barolo is superb." -Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

RP 94
"This wine carries a hot-vintage character, which comes as a surprise, with a medium-plus, viscous feel and a glossy texture. The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2021 Barolo paints a broad portrait of Nebbiolo without the high-definition clarity or the high notes that you get in the cooler years. The approach is instead quite accessible and open, with silky tannins and a fruit-driven finish." -Monica Larner

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Fruity , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied