Les Matheny is the husband-and-wife team of Elise and Emeric Foléat, both lifelong Jurassiens. Emeric worked alongside Jacques Puffeney for 8 years; he continues Puffeney's legacy of working classical Jura varieties into unabashedly powerful wines, rather than the more usual wispy and pale wines of the region. Due to the nature of the winemaking (Jura’s typical long aging, working more philosophically than scientifically), the yields are tiny.
What importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant has to say about this wine...
Quite a few parcels comprise Les Matheny’s Chardonnay, and Emeric vinifies each one separately, deciding on the final blend only after each individual wine develops its personality with time in barrel—in this case, well-worn 600-liter tonneaux. Produced from vines averaging 45 years of age, the wine soars from the glass, a storm of ripe green apples, freshly blasted quarry, and musky honey. The palate is both firm and expansive, with a generous pinch of telltale Jurassic salt lengthening the complex, penetrating flavors of greengage and candied lemon. Emeric’s “partial sous-voile” approach shows in the wine’s gently oxidative edge—one that bows to the veil without making a virtue of it—and for such a bold and assertive wine to remain so straightforwardly delicious is a difficult balancing act. This was the wine with which Emeric and Elise opened our tasting, and it made for a formidable first impression.
Earthy , Fruity , Minerally