In the binary world of wine we sometimes put “natural” wine in a category that seems on the opposite side of “classic” or “traditional” wines. But the truth is that most of my favorite wines, and indeed some of the world’s most sought after and expensive bottles as well, happen to be both natural and classic. From DRC to Lapierre to Clos Rougeard, the list of delicious, terroir true classics that also are made naturally is surprisingly deep.Vincent Boyer is a great example. He took over his family’s estate, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot, about 15 years ago and ever since he’s strived to make wines that exemplify the traditions and terroir of Meursault and the generations that came before. Simultaneously he’s been dialing back interventions in the cellar and the vineyards. Over the past few years all of the vineyards have undergone conversion to organic viticulture, and Vincent himself spends many hours tending the vines. In the cellar only native yeasts are used, battonage is almost non-existent and only tiny amounts of sulphur are added after malos have been completed. In order to make his wines as naturally as possible without losing any sense of place Vincent has extended the elevage to 24 months, some of which is in mostly older barrels and some in concrete eggs.
Minerally , Oaky , Rich