A Family Fave from Burlotto's Garden
The 2021 Pelaverga Verduno is classy and elegant to the core.
- Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Burlotto's most famous wine -- and most expensive -- is their point-crushing Monvigliero Barolo. A great wine for sure, like all their Barolos. But if you ever go to visit the family in their castello up at the top of the tiny village of Verduno, you'll discover that the wine closest to the family's heart isn't even made with Nebbiolo. It's a bottle of Pelaverga Piccolo "Little Pelaverga".
What is Pelaverga Piccolo and why does it mean so much to them? Pelaverga of any kind is a rare treat. But this grape is totally different, they say, from Pelaverga Grosso ("large Pelavarga") that most producers bottle. Burlotto's Pelaverga was almost extinct, growing in the family's private garden for generations, but not produced commercially until Elisa Burlotto (daughter of the G.B. Burlotto on the label) planted it in the Massara cru that abuts Monvigliero.
Great real estate for a little-known grape, but a brilliant decision! The wine is complex even when young, with floral and herbaceous notes that complement the brilliant, bright fruit. It doesn't taste like Nebbiolo, but it very much tastes Piedmontese, with the combination of fine structure and pure pleasure, like if barbera, dolcetto, and Nebbiolo had a baby. It's genius with food: light-feeling and lovely with salad or vegetable-focused meals, yet substantial enough to go with serious meat dishes.
G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2021 - $36.99
" The 2021 Pelaverga Verduno is classy and elegant to the core. Crushed red berry fruit, sweet floral notes and a kick of citrus are all laced together. Burlotto's silky, polished Pelaverga is about as good as it gets for this quirky variety. Aging in steel helped preserve quite a bit of freshness.89 pts" -Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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