Flatiron Wines & Spirits SF

One look at the labels of Granbazan and you know you’ve found something distinctive. Open a bottle, and you know you’ve found something authentic. The wine has lovely fruit, yes, but it's the crisp berries, apples, and pears of cool-climate white wine, not the tropical flavors of warmer climates. The wine is infused with the fresh minerality that you would expect from older vines planted in excellent terroir: rocks and minerals, precious jewels.

Like Jacquesson, and several other producers, Philipponnat has enjoyed a quality revolution in the 21st century. In 1999 a new Philipponnat took over (this is still a family domaine), Charles Philipponnat, and he radically upped the winery’s game. He made little innovations here and there – using only the first press juice from his Chardonnay, and extended the aging of his wines in neutral barrels, for example. His wines became more intense and richer, but also fresher. No surprise, their non-vintage Champagnes are excellent – among the best in all of Champagne – and we particularly enjoy the Rosé.

The great grower Champagnes that excite Champagne lovers these days tend to fall into a certain category, with low dosage, low sulfur, and a decidedly edgy vibe. We love them. But one grower has managed to gain fame and fortune—not to mention a cult-like obsession here in the U.S.—without going in that direction: Bérêche & Fils.