Pascal Doquet owns some of the choicest parcels in Champagne, in premier and grand cru sites like Vertus and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte de Blancs. His work is meticulous. His wines are fabulous. Why are they still so under the radar?

He’s a winemaker who would rather not talk about his winemaking techniques — what goes on in the cellar is frankly boring, compared to the ever-changing happenings in the vines. The estate has been certified organic since 2010, but Pascal’s had a passion for sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticulture much longer.

Unsurprisingly, when the grapes are selected for harvest (and only the best, most pristine fruit is), the name of the cellar game is restraint. A gentle pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation, and minimal bâtonnage are standard, and all cuvées are aged for a minimum of three years.

The recipe is right, but do the Champagnes taste great? Yes they do. They marry intensity, luxurious richness, and the personalities of his fabulous terroirs. Today, you can see exactly what we mean by trying Doquet’s Champs de Libres at a sharp discount.

Although Doquet might be thought of as a Chardonnay specialist, and this wine is 43% Chardonnay from the Cotes des Blancs, this corner of Champagne also happens to grow some delightfully fresh Pinot Noir. That Pinot Noir makes up a slight majority of the blend. This has no effect on Doquet’s approach in the winery, which remains very light touch (malolactic fermentation is allowed to occur naturally; dosage is very low). The Champagne is crisp and chalky – like any good wine from the Cotes des Blancs – but the Pinot adds an unexpected element, a luxurious thread of fruit that is just a shade redder.

It reminds us that every Champagne – or at least every Grower Champagne – has its own story to tell. This one is worth listening to:

Pascal Doquet Champagne BdB Extra Brut Champs Libres NV - $64.99