Burgundian superstars find freedom in the Santa Rita Hills
Such a gorgeous and expressive Pinot Noir
-Antonio Galloni, Vinous
French winemakers have been falling in love with California wine country since, well, before it was wine country. Because even winemakers with some of the best terroir in France are blown away by what they find here.
That was the case when Burgundy's Etienne de Montille of the famous Domaine de Montille set out to find his dream sites on the West Coast. He and his Chef de Cave (his right-hand man, basically), Brian Sieve, drove up and down the coast, from Oregon, through Santa Cruz, and down to Santa Barbara. They studied as they went, examining soils and micro-climates, and (bien sur) tasting, tasting, tasting. They knew they needed cool sites and varied soils to bring freshness and complexity. Sun, to ripen the fruit, was less of a challenge. Finally, they settled on the Santa Rita Hills north of Santa Barbara as the terroir with the most potential for what they wanted to do.
And what did they want to do? They wanted "the opportunity to create something completely new, liberated from the weight of history that comes with making wine in their own villages in Burgundy," in Etienne's words. And that's just what they've done, making Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are wonderfully expressive, articulate voicings of the marriage of Burgundian know-how not only with California terroir but with an American sense of freedom to experiment.
Today's Pinot comes from a few vineyards on the Santa Rosa Road corridor of the Santa Rita Hills, with soil running the gamut types from sandy loam to clay loam, chert to shale, a variety which gives a fine complexity of flavor and texture. Brian and Etienne ferment with some whole clusters, which gives additional lift and complexity. The Chardonnay comes from a few sites including the Wenzlau Vineyard which is surrounded by Rita’s Crown, Mt. Carmel, and Sea Smoke Vineyards on a steep, dramatic hillside just above the Santa Ynez River and across from the famed Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. The Chardonnay ages in a combination of oak (only about 10% of it new) and steel, giving the fruit a chance to open up but preserving the fresh Santa Rita goodness.
Racines, Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills, 2020 $45.99
"The 2020 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Cuvee is a solid, entry-level offering from Racines. Apricot, lemon confit, tangerine, and light tropical accents all grace this open-knit, inviting Chardonnay. This is a pretty overt style, but it works nicely. 90pts" Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Racines, Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Cuvée 2020 $45.99
"The 2020 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Cuvée is a terrific introduction to the range. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, spice, rose petal and a touch of whole cluster savoriness are all beautifully delineated. This is such a gorgeous and expressive Pinot. 93pts"Antonio Galloni, Vinous
This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them. |