Chateau Massereau: Great Bordeaux, But Nor for Parker
When Flatiron Wines first developed its philosophy, over ten years ago, we were still fighting what was the dominant trend in the industry: the “Parkerization” of wine. This term is now dated enough that probably many of you have not heard about it. It refers to the powerful influence of the American wine critic Robert Parker. He went around praising and heaping huge scores on wines because of their “gobs of glycerol” or “fruit explosions”. Wines he rated highly became famous, so many producers started to make wines that pleased this style preference.
So when we first met Jean-François Chaigneau we were quite pleased when he told us that he “hated” Robert Parker and that the last thing that he wanted in his wine was a “gob” or an “explosion”. His words were particularly poignant because Jean-Francois Chaigneau comes from Bordeaux, the area that fell under Parker’s sway more than any other.
What Chaigneau wants is true Bordeaux honesty. He achieves this with thoroughly old-fashioned methods. He eschews chemicals in the vineyard, plows with horses, and uses an old manual wooden press in the cellar. No “gobs” added! In the case of today’s wine, there isn’t even any sulfur.
The wine is called Cuvee X and it is a thoroughly delicious Bordeaux that is in exactly the opposite style of Parker’s. It’s supremely fresh. It’s very drinkable. It’s not afraid to show its herbaceous side, but really it’s the gorgeous fresh fruitiness of the generous 2019 vintage that dominates the wine.
It’s a style that, sadly, is still far too rare in Bordeaux, despite Parker’s waning influence.
Please give it a try:
Chateau Massereau Bordeaux Superieur Cuvee X 2019- $33.99
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