Domaine de Montille: Best at Any Age
The Domaine de Montille needs no introduction for lovers of Burgundy.
Indeed anyone who seeks out small production, naturally made wines will likely have encountered the Montille name. Hubert de Montille and his son Etienne were pioneers in returning Burgundy to organic farming and promoting biodynamics as well.
Hubert was also a staunch opponent of anything that resembled industrial winemaking, and of the sleek, international homogeneity that resulted from it.
Since Hubert’s passing in 2014, Etienne and the current winemaker, American Brian Sieve, have continued to pursue the domaine’s focus on excellence. Farming everything as naturally and pristinely as possible remains the priority, they have been certified organic since 2012 and biodynamic principles are widely employed.
In the cellar, Brian and his team are meticulous, clean and as hands off as possible. They have even begun producing a few cuvées entirely sans souffre (no SO2 added).
All of this experience and talent has proved extremely valuable when dealing with the new normal of challenging vintages like 2018.
Etienne and his team were super precise in picking at optimal times for each parcel, harvesting everything between August 25th and September 8th.
It worked. Nothing came in at over 13.3% potential alcohol, and most wines are in the 12.9-13.1% range. There is plenty of stuffing and concentration but also excellent balance of structure and acidity.
De Montille is one of the few Burgundy producers that excel in a range of both red and white wines, and the 2018 Chardonnays are particularly surprising in their freshness and structure.
“A pretty if somewhat pungent nose is slightly phenolic while displaying smoky notes of white peach and acacia. The succulent and round, even plush, flavors possess good mid-palate density while exuding a subtle minerality that adds a touch of lift to the lemony and agreeably dry finale.”
-A.M., Burghound “Outstanding”
“A more elegant though still markedly earthy nose speaks of dark berries, violet and a whiff of wood. The caressing yet entirely serious medium weight flavors exude a light minerality while displaying fine length on the focused, detailed and notably firmer finish.”
“It has a lovely bouquet of red berry fruit laced with slate and bay leaf aromas, very well defined and absorbing the 25% new oak easily. The palate is well balanced with a mineral-rich entry, a fine bead of acidity and touches of brown spice sprinkled over the red fruit. The stony, terse finish indicates that it could age for longer than many will grant it.”
-Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2018 Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru is 100% whole cluster and underwent one of the earliest malolactics, finishing by January 2019. It has a mixture of red and black fruit tinged with brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, the whole cluster so well integrated that you would guess it contained far less. The elegant finish is tinged with bay leaf and white pepper notes. Excellent.”
50% whole cluster, “Once again there is liqueur-like character to the aromas of red cherry, passion fruit, spice and pretty floral elements. There is excellent volume to the caressing and palate coating flavors that are refined yet powerful on the very serious, structured and built-to-age finale. This is excellent but patience strongly recommended.”
-A.M., Burghound “Sweet Spot Outstanding”