California Chardonnay has to deal with two somewhat contradictory trends in the wine world. Wine drinkers these days, quite reasonably, want their wines to taste of the places they come from. That’s what makes it interesting to drink a wine from vineyard A, instead of vineyard B – because they taste different.

But many wine drinkers complain about California Chardonnay. They say it does not taste European enough. They want it to taste more like Meursault, or even Chablis.

Today’s wine helps resolve the contradiction. Scar of the Sea is one of California’s most impressive new wineries. They source grapes from top sites in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, and they make fabulous wines.

Their trick is to showcase central coast terroir but with old world style. The wines have the freshness and energy that you would expect from white Burgundy. Aging is in larger barrels, and – following the current Roulot style in Burgundy – there is no racking of the wine before bottling. Interventions other otherwise minimal, and fermentations are all natural.

The terroir comes across thanks to this hands off approach, and thanks also to old vines that are organically farmed. Today’s Chardonnay comes from vines planted around 50 years ago – that’s very old for these parts! So with the energy and style you get fruit notes that are distinctively Santa Maria. Is it tangerines, almonds? It’s hard to put your finger on it, but it’s delicious. And it’s distinctive.

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Vino de los Ranchos 2021 - $35.99