Domaine Philippe Tessier began in 1960 when Philippe’s father, Roger Tessier, began planting vines throughout his asparagus farm. In 1981, Philippe joined his father and eventually took over the domain, expanding it to 24 hectares spread over two appellations, Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny. After 15 years of traditional viticulture, Philippe began transitioning the vineyards to strict organic viticulture. By 1998 the domain was farming using only organic methods and in 2002 became Ecocert certified.

Tessier farms a handful of grape varieties including Sauvignon, Chardonnay, de Orbois, Pinot Noir, Gamay, and of course Romorantin which is the only white grape variety allowed in the tiny appellation Cour-Cheverny (only 48 hectares in size) and perhaps our favorite white variety no one has ever heard of. The domaine is currently split evenly to 50 percent white and 50 percent red grape varieties planted on a mix of soil that range from clay to sand and limestone.

The wines that he makes are by any definition natural and are also incredibly precise and elegant. Phillip believes the wines should be alive and vibrant, but most of all should speak to the place from where they come. Whether it's his single vineyard bottling of old vine Romorantin or his Cherney blends, each wine is terroir driven and could come from no other place. This is especially true of the only sparkling wine that Phillipe makes.

Just like in years past, Tessier’s 2021 “Phil’en Bulle” is one of the best pet-nats around. (pet-nats are crafted using methode ancestrale - one fermentation that finishes in the bottle). It doesn't hurt that it is made from two of our favorite Loire Valley grapes, Romorantin and Menu Pineau (Orbois) and that after being vinified it spent a year resting on its lees before being disgorged. A pale gold in the glass, this sensational wine offers aromas of citrus blossoms, asian pears, fresh herbs and honey. Brisk and bright, that year spent on its lees gives the palette a serious density with layers of almond, citrus oil, white stone fruit and caramel. Finished long and refreshing this is an exceptional food wine that will go with almost anything. It also happens to make the best French 75. Most impressively this exceedingly intentional and precise wine is made without the use of sulfur.

Once overlooked the world has caught on and Phillipe’s wine along with many of his fellow groundbreaking Cheverny vignerons have become very sought after. Folks are drawn to the purity and mineral driven nature of these wines with fruit flavors that always remain bright and crunchy. We are happy for Phillipe and Cheverny as a whole since they so very much deserve the attention and respect they have worked so hard to earn. The downside is that there is a lot less wine to go around. Make sure you grab enough to stash some. This may be perfect poolside but it is always a favorite at Thanksgiving.

Domaine Philippe Tessier Phil'en Bulle Pet-Nat Loire Valley 2021 $34.99