The Sierra Foothills are finally getting the recognition it deserves and that in no small part to the decades long work of Gideon Beinstock. Clos Saron, the winery he founded with his wife Saron Rice, produces unique, complex age-worthy wines that are at the pinnacle of what California can do. He has dedicated himself to his adopted terroir, gaining a deep knowledge of each site he works with down to the vagaries of individual vines. His wines transparently reflect this, each as idiosyncratic as the man that makes them.

A childhood in Israel with his formative years spent as an artist in Paris, it was Gideon’s interest in the philosophical teaching of a Northern California agro-cult, The Fellowship of Friends, that -eventually led him to the Foothills of the Sierra Nevadas (here’s an excellent story by Esther Mobley about the Fellowship of Friends and their Renaissance Winery . 

He eventually became the cult’s winemaker where he gained a deep appreciation for this land and a lot of recognition for their Renaissance Winery. When Gideon decided to leave the fellowship, he didn't go too far. Years before, he’d decided to dedicate himself and his talents and intelligence, not just to winemaking but particularly to the terroir in the Foothills. Clos Saron is located in Oregon House, Yuba County, not too far from the Apollo settlement, the group’s Atlantis-like compound and location of the Renaissance vineyards

Gideon owns a small vineyard in front of his home from which he produces a tiny amount of Pinot Noir. He also farms leased plots in and around Oregon House. The vineyards are densely planted, about 2,500 vines per acre, and are dry farmed wherever possible. The resulting yields are very low, from below one ton per acre and maxing out around two. Because their area is free of phylloxera, their vines are all “own-rooted” and some are over thirty-five years old. He also farms Cinsault and Carignane from the Bechtold Vineyard in Lodi where the vines are well over a hundred years old. 

The grapes are harvested in repeated passes through the vines, from three to eight times, picking only clusters as they begin to soften, to determine perfect ripeness. They are then foot-stomped in open-top bins allowing the vineyards' indigenous yeasts to conduct the fermentation. For the blends, the grape varieties are all co-fermented as Gideon believes the results are better integrated. The wines are then aged on lees in five- to twenty-five-year-old French oak barrels for as long as he feels is needed before being bottled, unfined and unfiltered, with minimal use of sulfites. 

The results are nothing less than spectacular; wines that are deeply concentrated and complex yet never heavy. They are bottled and released only when Gideon thinks they are ready for primetime. Their inherent complexity only increases with time but even after decades in the cellar, Gideon’s wines retain radiant energy and tension, hallmarks of the world's best wines.

Shop our full collection of Clos Saron Wines. 

Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills White Blend 'Carte Blanche' 2017 

Albariño, Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc are  foot crushed and co-fermented then spend an average of six weeks with their skins. Upon opening it explodes with aromas of tropical and orchard fruit and white flowers. The pleasantly divergent palate is filled with flavors of peach pit, lemon pith, and golden grapefruit with a touch of salinity all floating on top of waves of richly textured acidity. This is in a great spot right now but can easily spend some more years in the cellar.

Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills Rosé 'Tickled Pink', 2015

There is no other Rose like this serious, outstanding rosé that is built to age. With bracing acidity and striking complexity, with a five  years of age under its belt, the Tickled Pink is screaming. A co-fermentation of Syrah/Graciano/Viognier.  The grapes for this wine were grown by Markus Bokisch in low rolling hills east of Galt, California. The soil is decomposed granite, washed down from the Sierra Mountains. Earthy and textural with dense crunchy stone fruit and fresh almond on the palate with an extremely pleasurable saline acidity.

Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills Red Blend 'Kind of Blue', 2017

This is from Gideons ‘Blue’ which are wines that are made for drinking in their youth. A co-fermentation of Tannat, Syrah, and Grenache from in and around Oregon House. Fragrant, richly textured with pure bright fruit flavors, and a solid backbone. Even though this is amongst his most prêt-à-porter wines it can still age for 15-25 years. Juicy, spicy/flowery notes, leading earthy/animal tones as it travels on to the back of the palate. Lots of grip and structure. 

Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills Syrah ‘Stone Soup’, 2016 (Very Limited)

In some vintages this is amongst my favorite Syrah the world over and 2016 is perhaps the best so far. While being wholly unique, this wine has that raw wild energy you only find in the terraces of Cotie Rotie and Cornas. This wine rewards the patient but of all the Stone Soups I’ve had this is easily the most generous upon release. The stoniness is immediately apparent on the nose with notes of crushed rock and iron, followed by stewed plum, dried herbs, and candied violets. The palate is rich with chewy tannins, just beginning to soften with age, and earthy, savory notes that are lifted by the floral tones from that touch of Viognier. Beautiful now but a proper cellaring will reward the patient. This will age beautifully for decades.

Clos Saron, Sierra Foothills Pinot Noir Home Vineyard, 2016 (Very Limited)

With its considerable concentration and structure, even after five years, this wine is only beginning to show off its enormous potential. It's dark in color with excellent density, acidity, and texture, and deep layered black, blue and red fruit. There's plenty of grip on the exceedingly complex palate that's filled with expressive earthy minerality and savory, exotic spicy notes, peeking through, waiting for their turn to shine. Bracingly delicious and unique yet very true to its variety, this like the Syrah will mature for decades.