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Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 2021

$239.99
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Aldo was (he died in 2012) the son of Giacomo Conterno, whose estate, under Aldo's nephew Roberto Conterno, continues to make the most sought-after Barolos. The wines are beautifully pure and quite fruit-expressive, but without any excess.

Aldo was always a believer in making Barolo “friendlier”, so he shortened macerations, switched to pump-overs, and quickly became thrown into the modernist camp. But because he never abandoned Slavonian oak casks, they wines have never had that new barrique “sheen” that so marks many modern Barolo. Today many people would describe this estate as mixing tradition and innovation – kind of how you could describe virtually all of the top estates, actually.

Bussia is where they (now Aldo’s sons) make all their wines, from a blend of different sub-Crus in Bussia – simply called Bussia – to the single-vineyard bottlings Colonello, Cicala and Romirasco, and the masterpiece Riserva Gran Bussia, which is again a blend but is 70% Romirasco.

Even die-hard traditionalists tend to admit that these are wines that are very easy to love.

Professional Reviews

Decanter

D 92
"Giacomo Conterno maintains that 2021 is a fantastic vintage to demonstrate differences of site. Case in point, the Cicala vineyard is separated only by forest from the nearby Colonnello and is characterised by blue calcareous clay with iron. Of the two, the 2021 Cicala is much more difficult to read at this early stage, somewhat overwhelmed by its potent structure and oak. A lifted nose eventually reveals vanilla, tobacco and even chocolate inflecting the dark cherry fruit. Very linear with slightly coarse, broad tannins, perhaps time – which is highly recommended – will allow its more subtle characteristics to emerge."

Wine Spectator

WS 97
"A super-intense and perfumed Barolo, graceful and powerful, with aromas of Parma violets, citrus, leaves, lush cherries and yellow stone fruit. Full-bodied on the palate, it shows a velvety texture, ripe tannins despite the extraction, tight-knit acidity and graphite flavors. Long, lavish finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Earthy , Rich

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied