Leo Alzinger is not just one of the great Wachau producers, he's one of the world's best producers of white wines. Vintage after vintage, Alzinger’s wines have the magical zip that gives great Riesling a... Read More

Leo Alzinger is not just one of the great Wachau producers, he's one of the world's best producers of white wines. Vintage after vintage, Alzinger’s wines have the magical zip that gives great Riesling a sense of life.

Alzinger's style is one of perfect balance. His methods preserve natural acidity and keep alcohol in check. Some winemakers like to preserve acidity by picking fruit early, before the heat has reduced acids and increased sugar (and sugar's resulting alcohol). That can force a grower to choose between the fully developed flavors that come with longer hang times, and the loss of freshness overripe fruit can bring.

But Alzinger has found another way. He doesn't harvest early; in fact, he often harvests later than his neighbors. Maybe it’s his terroir – steep terraced vineyards, at high elevation and with strong air currents, and sites that don't necessarily get full sun, all day long. Maybe it's all his old vines.

Or maybe it’s his winemaking. With his perfectly ripe fruit he isn't afraid of a little skin contact. He crushes whole bunches of fruit, which may help to keep alcohol in check. A short maceration picks up terroir components from the skins as well as the juice, and the big neutral barrels the wines age in offer a peaceful place to rest and harmonize.