There is often a misconception that "Old Fashioned" or "Traditional" implies something rustic—a wine that is rough around the edges. But if you have ever tasted the great traditional wines of Italy—like a Soldera Brunello... Read More

There is often a misconception that "Old Fashioned" or "Traditional" implies something rustic—a wine that is rough around the edges. But if you have ever tasted the great traditional wines of Italy—like a Soldera Brunello or a classic Monfortino—you know that the opposite is true. When executed perfectly, traditional methods don't create roughness; they create profound transparency. They allow a wine to have power without weight.

Caparsa doesn't cost hundreds of dollars a bottle, but spiritually at least, it belongs in that same conversation.

The estate is run by Paolo Cianferoni, a man as rugged and honest as his vines. He was just seven when his father bought the farm, and Paolo claims to have worked the very first vintage that they produced and all 55 vintages since then! The farm is in Radda in Chianti, the highest and coolest zone of the appellation. In recent years, Radda has become the most sought-after terroir in the region because its altitude preserves acidity and freshness even in warmer years. It is sometimes called the "Chambolle-Musigny of Chianti" for its tendency to produce ethereal, red-fruited wines.

But Caparsa adds a bass note to that Radda treble.

Paolo’s winemaking is unhurried and confident: organic farming, spontaneous fermentations in cement vats, and aging in cement casks. The result is a Chianti with far more presence than is typical at this price point. It feels "gutsy"—with a wild, savory soul—but because of the Radda terroir, it remains incredibly refined. It is structured but not stern; generous but never heavy.