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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint Aubin 1er Cru Hommage a Marguerite 2022

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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey became a star for all kinds of reasons.

Partly, it was because he was an early master of a style of white Burgundy that has now become very popular: less oaky (thanks in part to larger barrels), no lees-stirring, earlier picked, a bit more reductive. The aim is not to make the fat wines that were still popular when he was starting out, but rather expressive wines that were chiseled and precise. His wines do all of this so well that he persuaded the rest of us to go along for the ride.

He also became a star because of critical acclaim, and it was the right kind of critical acclaim for the moment. Way back in 2008 Jancis Robinson wrote up PYCM and headlined it: “Making Chassagne more like Riesling”, capturing the style of these wines perfectly. Only Jancis could make a star of Klaus-Peter Keller by comparing his Rieslings to white Burgundy and a star of PYCM by comparing his white Burgundies to Riesling!

But we think he also became a star for a reason that some may overlook: he has long been a champion of Burgundy’s so-called lesser terroirs, and he has been able to make from them incredible wines that can reach a larger audience.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 93
"The 2022 Saint-Aubin Hommage à Marguerite 1er Cru blends Perrière, Créots, Les Combes and Pitangerets (part of Les Combes). The wonderful bouquet offers scents of peach skin, chai and a brush of chalk dust, very enticing even at this early stage. The palate is very well-balanced with a little more tension than the regular Saint-Aubin, a slightly flinty finish completing this very able wine." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 92
"Opening in the glass with aromas of white flowers, pear, crisp green apple, oatmeal and praline, the 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Hommage à Marguerite is medium to full-bodied, with a satiny attack that segues into a fleshy core of fruit framed by chalky dry extract. The 2022 vintage is another success for Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, in style somewhat reminiscent, at this early stage, of the estate's 2020s. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I wrote last year, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, and he now feels he added more than was necessary—given these altered conditions—to his 2015s, 2016s and 2017s. So, some subtle adjustments have now been made in this regard, and readers can expect the wines to be a little less buttoned up out of the gates than has been the case in those three vintages. Now Pierre-Yves has so much space, he's also thinking about further extending the élevage of his lower appellations; in the next two or three years, he's contemplating fermenting and maturing them in 350-liter barrels for a year, before rackin"

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Customer Reviews

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