Some of the most intriguing, complex and delicious wines hail from places no one would expect to see grapes growing — in today’s case, we're talking about the hills surrounding Sicily’s Mount Etna, an active... Read More

Some of the most intriguing, complex and delicious wines hail from places no one would expect to see grapes growing — in today’s case, we're talking about the hills surrounding Sicily’s Mount Etna, an active volcano. That winemakers are willing to risk life and limb in pursuit of their craft should indicate just how incredible the wines they produce can be. The soil is poor and hard to work, and the wind whips constantly through the vines.

At I Custodi, the dedication to this difficult terroir is unmistakable; these are the custodians of the land and guardians of the vines. The estate’s founder, Mario Paoluzi considers it his great responsibility to farm his vineyards according to the local traditions, and the wines produced there are full of life. The work of terracing these slopes, almost half a mile above sea level, is backbreaking, but it’s worth it.

Grapes have been grown and wine has been made in Sicily for millennia. In the medieval period, a guild of vineyard workers was formed, called I Vigneri, formed by the men who most intimately knew each part and parcel. In the modern era, consultant and general Etna genius Salvo Foti brought back the concept, employing a cadre of vine growers and workers to create a brain trust as well as a workforce.