This has been one Germany’s most unrepentantly unique producers for half a century, though the estate itself was founded in 1893.

The big change began when Hans-Josef Becker took over the family estate 50... Read More

This has been one Germany’s most unrepentantly unique producers for half a century, though the estate itself was founded in 1893.

The big change began when Hans-Josef Becker took over the family estate 50 years ago and abruptly switched tack. Rather than continue to focus on the unctuous, sweet Rieslings the region was known for, Hans-Josef shifted production towards mercilessly dry, razor-sharp dry Rieslings that required years – sometimes decades – of cellaring to mellow out.

Such a radical move obviously comes with consequences. When his current importer asked what happened when he first made the switch in 1971, Becker replied “I lost all my customers.”

But Becker, who farms organically and ferments with indigenous yeast, kept going, and it seems like the world has finally caught up to his vision.

Dry German Rieslings are much more popular now, even in traditional bastions of sweet wine production like the Rheingau.

That said, Becker’s wines are still unique even in today’s more understanding world, and can even be a little shocking sometimes. This is especially true of the aged wines, which can be briny, spicy, and more than a little cerebral.