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Bottle of Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia 2004-Red Wine-Flatiron SF

Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Tondonia Reserva 2004

Red Wine from Rioja, Spain
by Lopez de Heredia
$89.99
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Like most previous releases of Lopes's top bottling, this will astound with its freshness. No small feat considering they aren't released for 12 years, a testament to the quality of the Tondonia Vineyard.

Left Lopez de Heredia

One of the many clichés employed by the wine world is the adjective “traditional”. However, there is one winery where that adjective very appropriately applies. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the more than 130 years since its founding. It occupies the same historic cellars and unlike most of their competitors, which are now owned by outside investors, López de Heredia is owned, and every detail of its operation is handled by the family who founded it.

Due to the way the industry has evolved in Rioja, most bodegas buy grapes from dozens of small growers, but not López de Heredia. They own every inch of the vineyards that supply their wines. In addition, they eschew any use of commercial yeasts and rely only natural yeasts present in their ancient cellar.

A visit to Lopez makes this all very clear. When you descend into the cellar you are met with a rush of cool air tinged with the telltale odor of penicillin. Carved out of solid rock, fifty feet underground, the cellars are at a constant 54 degrees, perfectly situated for the aging of wine and the cultivation of friendly microbes. The walls are black and wet with the occasional patch of white mold. Inside you will find 12,900 American oak barrels and 72 ancient fermenters as well as one of the worlds great collection of cobwebs.

The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation—Maria José, Mercedes and Julio César. Yet, still nothing changes. In fact, these three are as philosophically committed to the winery’s traditions as their parents and grandparents were before them.

The wines are always masterful but in certain vintages can be transcendent. Lopéz labels their wines in all three rioja categories, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Technically almost all of their wines meet the regions criteria for Gran Reserva but as usual they do it the old ways, making Gran Reserva only in exceptional vintage.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 93
"Exotic, oak-spiced red berry liqueur, dried cherry and vanilla aromas are complemented by a smoky overtone. Sweet and pliant in the mouth, displaying a velvety texture to the plush black raspberry, cherry-vanilla and coconut flavors. Shows no rough edges and picks up a suave floral note with air, finishing with excellent clarity, a hint of allspice and round, harmonious tannins." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 94
"The 2004 Viña Tondonia Reserva is a completely different story. It is a worthy follower of the 2001, the greatest of the Viña Tondonia Reservas of recent times. It has the usual blend and usual levels of alcohol and acidity, bottled after six years in oak barrels. The nose feels savory (if that's possible–umami?) and developed, with tertiary aromas and good balance between spices, leathery notes, cherries and balsamic notes of cigar box and incense. The palate is both round and crisp, with refined tannins. It has very good balance with subtle acidity and very good persistence." -Robert Parker

Jancis Robinson

JR 18
"Beautifully complex aromas: leather and undergrowth and yet still there is red fruit. A miracle. Silky and refined. Leathery, dry but there's no dryness on the finish. So complex."

Wine Spectator

WS 90
"Savory flavors of tea, mushroom and leather frame dried cherry and orange peel notes in this traditional-style red. Features a smooth, polished texture, with light tannins and bright acidity. Harmonious and graceful."

Wine Enthusiast

WE 91
"Slightly damp, earthy and cool aromas introduce this traditional Rioja. In the mouth, pinchy tannins and tomatoey acidity pave the way for flavors of raisin, peppery spice and leafy herbs. A long steady finish is full of life."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Red Blend , Tempranillo

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Customer Reviews

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