Sometimes it’s impossible to tell why one wine blows up and another doesn’t.Take Domaine Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent. They farm their old vines (50-90 years) sustainably and make the wine in the traditional way, with whole clusters in concrete with only minute doses of sulfur. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. It sounds like exactly the kind of wine that has become fashionable. And yet, while it’s a wine we’ve gladly drunk and sold, no muss no fuss, over the years, it’s never been a wine that people hunt down.It doesn’t matter that it gets good press. The late, great Josh Raynolds raved about it vintage after vintage, and William Kelley has also given it excellent write-ups (see below). It doesn’t even matter that Diochon is imported by none other than Kermit Lynch, the man who more than any other made top quality Beaujolais what it is today: a favorite of food- and wine-loving folk from one coast to the other.Maybe it’s the terroir? Moulin-à-Vent is generally considered the most regal — the most serious — of the 10 Crus. It can be more tannic than most of the other Crus — even when it’s made in the traditional carbonic style. And Diochon is true to its manganese-rich, granite terroir: the wine is plenty elegant, but it does have the chew to stand up to a burger or even a steak. Or maybe it’s that the wine really starts to sing after a year or so in the bottle — and will easily age for up to 10 years.
Details
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Grape Variety
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Vintage
2024
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Size
750ml
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Farming Practice
Sustainable
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Style
Fruity
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Sweetness
Dry
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Body
Light Bodied