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Jean-Francois Ganevat Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2020

$149.99
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"Some winemakers claim not to do much in the winery. “The wines make themselves,” they may say. Others seem like alchemists: expert blenders and manipulators who coax beautiful wines even from unlikely terroir.

These may seem like opposite poles. The magic of Jean-François Ganevat, though, is that he occupies them both.

His “naturalist” tendencies are obvious. He farms naturally and biodynamically, and he is obsessed with using as little sulfur as possible. His wines developed an early cult following among the natural wine crowd, and the cult has only become more fervent over time.

But he is also very much an “alchemist,"" as Kermit Lynch describes him on their website. He makes up to 40 different cuvées every vintage and treats all of them differently. He uses a variety of techniques like lees-aging and deliberate oxidation to protect the wines in their low-sulfur environment. Although every wine ultimately comes from nature, there is no question that Ganevat has followed his own very precise intuitions and recipes to bring them to greatness."

Professional Reviews

Robert Parker

RP 97
"The 2020 Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes is, year in, year out, my favorite Chardonnay here. The vines were planted in 1919 on red marl and gravel soil. Like all the ouillé whites here, it fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in neutral oak barrels for four years with the lees and will be bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no added sulfur. It has tantalizing aromas of tangerine peel and pollen, herbs, yeasts and cereals. It's a little creamy in this warm year and faintly marked by the élevage in oak. All the wines mature in a combination of barrels from different sizes, some 228-liter ones and larger foudres, some also in clay pots. Tasted as a sample from foudre, the oak is less noticeable, because when they age in smaller volumes with lees, the effect of the wood seems to be more noticeable. A component that might not make it into the bottled blend comes from younger vines Ganevat planted in 1986 when he was still working in Burgundy; it felt more Savagnin than Chardonnay, elegant and fine, with 13.6% to 13.7% alcohol, lighter and truly magnificent... But the blend is always better than the individual parts." -Luis Gutiérrez

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Natural

  • Style

    Fruity , Unfined / Cloudy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied