The Priorat, with its famous black terraces of crumbling slate (Llicorella) is king of Catalonia’s wines—powerful and expensive. But encircling Priorat, like some vinous crown, is Montsant, a land that, though less expensive, is a... Read More

The Priorat, with its famous black terraces of crumbling slate (Llicorella) is king of Catalonia’s wines—powerful and expensive. But encircling Priorat, like some vinous crown, is Montsant, a land that, though less expensive, is a treasure in its own right.

Montsant, like the Priorat, has very old vines (plenty of Orto Vins’ are 90+ years) and a tradition of hyper-local winemaking (every family had vines and a vat and made some wine at home). But its terroir is very different: the hills aren't as steep, the Mediterranean breeze seems to cool a little more, and the soils are varied, from calcareous clay to granitic sand.

Of course, people move back and forth between the regions. Take Montsant native, Joan Arsens: professor, biodynamic guru, and winemaker of Orto Vins. After 15 years working with Alvaro Palacios on culty Priorat wines like L’Ermita and Finca Dofi, Arsens went home to make more subtle, understated wines that echoed the region’s traditional, small scale winemaking.

Arsens is a devout biodynamic winemaker. Before tasting, we walked the vineyards while he explained energy flows and biodynamic treatments (which he hand-mixes with local ingredients) without a hint of skepticism. It all sounds a little voodoo, but indeed: Why be skeptical when the result is wines that are so good?