Robert Parker
RP
93
"The 2021 Matas Altas is a new village red, a blend of grapes from different vineyards. This wine took them longer to make; it's all from ungrafted vines (from before the 1970s) with a field blend, mostly Monastrell (90%) but also varieties from Manchuela, Moravia Agria, Bobal, Pardilla (Marisancho) and the rest of the Mediterranean, Forcallat, Bonicaire... from massal selections on different limestone soils (rambla, marl—gray and green, sand, glacis...) with north- and west-facing expositions. They used 10% full clusters at the top, fermenting at high temperature, pressed (no maceration) and matured in a 5,000-liter oak foudre and some large barriques for one year. They only added a little sulfur at bottling time. All the reds have something from the Northern Rhône and something reminiscent of Barolo in the texture. They believe Monastrell cannot be picked too early and cannot be picked too late, which means the wines are ripe, all with 14% alcohol (or higher), but they keep superb freshness and balance. This sets the tone for the profile of the reds from 2021, with red fruit, Mediterranean herbs and a medium-bodied palate with silky tannins and a chalky mouthfeel." -Robert Parker