There's a lot of talk about “mountain wine”. You might wonder why we care so much. In the past we've mentioned cooler conditions and slopes that face the sun.

In the Dão, however —... Read More

There's a lot of talk about “mountain wine”. You might wonder why we care so much. In the past we've mentioned cooler conditions and slopes that face the sun.

In the Dão, however — one of Portugal’s oldest, greatest wine regions — the Serra da Estrala and Serra do Caramulo ranges demonstrate another useful role mountains play: as barriers. From the west, they shield the vineyards from the difficulties that the Atlantic Ocean can bring, such as humidity and rain. On the east, the mountains separate them from the extremely hot and dry conditions that you find inland. The result is a climate in perfect balance — something the prescient Romans discovered thousands of years ago and that winemakers continue to exploit today.

Including the Quinta de Lemos. This Quinta takes full advantage of the region’s mountains, sitting in the middle of the valley but high up on a plateau to achieve the full benefits of altitude. The conditions are ideal for producing olives, honey and, what interests us today, delicious wine.

De Lemos takes full advantage of another great thing about this valley: it is filled with wonderful indigenous grape varieties that you will find virtually nowhere else. Today’s wine is made up of three: Touriga Nacional (which you have probably heard of because it is used to make Port), Jaen (a.k.a. Mencía) and Alfrocheiro. Blending is a local tradition, as each brings its own vital component to the wine: spice (Touriga Nacional), a splash of dark fruit (Alfrocheiro), and freshness (Jaen).