"For the wines, we began with my “Sparkling Wine of 2022”, introduced by a pal in Beaune last October. The 2017 Extra Brut Intransigeance comes from the small family-run Champagne Marie Demets. Pierre Demets is the third generation winemaker who took over the running of the house in 2014, joined by his wife Mathilde three years later. It’s a tiny house in the middle of nowhere, apparently closer to Dijon than Reims. Their Intransigence is a blend of 56% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay from two parcels in the Côte des Bar, “La Fore^t” in Gye´-sur-Seine and “Fins” in Neu-ville-sur-Seine, vinified in stainless-steel vat for ten months and then 40 months sur lattes, disgorged in December 2021 with a low dosage of 1g/L. Just 2,772 bottles were made. This has a vivid bouquet with red apples, freshly-baked brioche and nectarine, the Pinot Noir more expressive than the Chardonnay. I appreciated its delineation and joie-de-vivre. The palate has real weight and race, a vibrant Champagne with a fine edgy, citrus-led opening before subtle white peach, lime and Clementine notes furnish the finish." -Neal Martin
