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Bottle of Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva 2004-White Wine-Flatiron SF

Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva 2004

White Wine from Rioja, Spain
by Lopez de Heredia
$239.99
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One of the many clichés employed by the wine world is the adjective “traditional”. However, there is one winery where that adjective very appropriately applies. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the more than 130 years since its founding. It occupies the same historic cellars and unlike most of their competitors, which are now owned by outside investors, López de Heredia is owned, and every detail of its operation is handled by the family who founded it.

Due to the way the industry has evolved in Rioja, most bodegas buy grapes from dozens of small growers, but not López de Heredia. They own every inch of the vineyards that supply their wines. In addition, they eschew any use of commercial yeasts and rely only natural yeasts present in their ancient cellar.

A visit to Lopez makes this all very clear. When you descend into the cellar you are met with a rush of cool air tinged with the telltale odor of penicillin. Carved out of solid rock, fifty feet underground, the cellars are at a constant 54 degrees, perfectly situated for the aging of wine and the cultivation of friendly microbes. The walls are black and wet with the occasional patch of white mold. Inside you will find 12,900 American oak barrels and 72 ancient fermenters as well as one of the worlds great collection of cobwebs.

The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation—Maria José, Mercedes and Julio César. Yet, still nothing changes. In fact, these three are as philosophically committed to the winery’s traditions as their parents and grandparents were before them.

The wines are always masterful but in certain vintages can be transcendent. Lopéz labels their wines in all three rioja categories, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Technically almost all of their wines meet the regions criteria for Gran Reserva but as usual they do it the old ways, making Gran Reserva only in exceptional vintage.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 96
"The 2004 Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia is a delicate, unique white wine crafted in the old-school Rioja style. It showcases the enduring legacy of the Tondonia Vineyard, situated along the meander of the Ebro River. Aged for a remarkable ten years in oak barrels before being bottled in 2014 and held in the catacomb-like cellar of López de Heredia, this amber-hued wine reveals a complex array of aromas. Notes of hops, honey and hazelnut intertwine with hints of resin, dried apricot and tangerine. On the palate, it offers a dry, silky texture with a chalky undertone, delivering a slightly concentrated character reminiscent of sherry. This wine is a delicious oddity, seamlessly blending the past and present of white winemaking in Rioja." -Joaquín Hidalgo

Robert Parker

RP 100
"I was very much looking forward to the 2004 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva, the next vintage of this wine after the spectacular 2001. 2004 was a perfect climate year. This is a developed white that was matured in well-seasoned, neutral American oak barrels for 10 years in their old caves, where the wine gets pungent aromas of mushrooms, pollen, beeswax, white pepper, kerosene, cereals and something herbal (celery and even asparagus) that reminded me of the 1964. The palate is velvety and dry and super tasty, with a salty twist in the finish. It's still a baby even after years in bottle. This should age superbly in bottle. I think this is slightly better than the 2001, one of the freshest and most elegant vintages for this bottling. Bravo! 10,000 bottles were filled in November 2018. Before and after aging in barrel, the Gran Reserva wines also spend some time in oak vats." -Luis Gutiérrez

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Viura

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Fruity

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied