It’s kind of controversial, but Antonio Sanchez of Toro Albala claims that his wines are some of the only “pure” examples of sherry.

How can he say that? Flor and fortification. As sherry ages in... Read More

It’s kind of controversial, but Antonio Sanchez of Toro Albala claims that his wines are some of the only “pure” examples of sherry.

How can he say that? Flor and fortification. As sherry ages in barrel, a thin layer of yeast (the “flor”) grows on its surface. That flor is key to sherry’s flavor, protecting it from oxidation and giving complex aromas.

But, and here’s Antonio’s claim, that magic layer of yeast can only grow if the wine hits 14.5% abv—not something that sherry’s classic dry grape (Palomino Fino) can do. So most sherry producers fortify their wine with grape spirits to get the alcohol levels they need. Toro Albala, on the other hand, doesn't need to fortify because their wines are made with Pedro Ximenez (aka PX), a grape that can easily reach 14.75% abv. Antonio says that, without any foreign alcohol to interfere, Toro Albala’s wines can transmit more of their special terroir.

We can't say that these really are “purer” expressions of the region’s chalky soils, or of the beauty of flor -- and the reality about yeast and alcohol levels may be a little more complicated than Antonio makes it out to be. But in Antonio’s hands, PX makes a scintillating range of absolutely delicious wines, all of which show incredible, electric minerality. These are wines that every sherry-lover (or wine lover, really) owes it to themself to discover.