Unlike France or Germany, every region of Italy produces wine. In fact, every region of Italy produces famous wine, or at least wine that should be famous. In Calabria, that wine is Ciro.
Unlike France or Germany, every region of Italy produces wine. In fact, every region of Italy produces famous wine, or at least wine that should be famous. In Calabria, that wine is Ciro.
Ciro is an ancient wine region that was actually established by earliest Greek colonists in Italy. It is said that the ancient Greeks planted the Gaglioppo grape, made wine, and served it at their Olympics!
Modern Gaglioppo may or may not be the same variety. It is likely related to Frappato, genetically, and there is indeed a similarity, with a lighter color, good structure, and distinctive plummy aromas. Today, the grape variety produces the best wines of Calabria.
Like a lot of lawyers (including certain partners in Flatiron Wines!), Christian Vumbaca was tired of practicing law. He was lucky enough (unlike those same partners…) to have a Mom and Uncle who owned a vineyard in Ciro. He retired from the law and devoted his life to producing wines from Gaglioppo, as well as other indigenous varieties Greco Bianco and Pecorello.
His production is tiny and he works organically and in accordance with local traditions. His wines are delicious and, like the local Calabrian peppers, they are loaded with personality.
Gaglioppo can be fiercely structured, so he produces a fresh, low extraction version of the wine that is incredibly drinkable. Lovers of say, Occhipinti, will go nuts for this wine. His riserva is made from very old vines and is aged for two years (though not in oak). This one is for lovers of Barolo or perhaps a higher end Etna Rosso.
Gaglioppo really should become part of your wine vocabulary, and Calabria is as good as any other Italian region for wine exploration.
