Going back through the archive, we were surprised to learn that we have never covered Ciro Biondi before. Ciro Biondi is one of the key players in the renaissance that has made Mount Etna one of the greatest wine spots in Italy, and the world. Little known even 20 years ago, wine geeks worldwide now seek out these amazing wines made from ancient vines, indigenous grapes, high altitudes and terroir that is so exotically volcanic that you can still see lava flowing nearby.

Yes, Biondi has much in common with the other big names that we have covered, like Benanti or Passopisciaro. There is the same dedication to the wonderful natural materials provided by Mount Etna, including the expressive Carricante (for whites) and Nerello Mascalese (for red). There is the respect for traditional methods, but also enlightened innovations (such as fermenting, and not just aging, the white wines in barrel, which, they say, prevents the barrel from rendering woody flavors). And there is, significantly, the same hand of Salvo Foti, the genius wine-maker who more than anyone else is responsible for the Etna revolution, working as a consultant for all the top producers, including Biondi.

So what sets Ciro Biondi apart? In part, it is geography. Most of the well-known Etna producers work on the northern side, where the cooler conditions produce a stern, structured wine. Historically, though, the southeast slopes were more prized (as is the case with vineyards across Europe). It is here that Ciro Biondi’s vineyards lie.
It means that Biondi’s wines are a little less structured and a little more aromatic and floral. If you were to think about it in Barolo terms, this is La Morra, or in Burgundy terms, Chambolle Musigny. You get the idea. This is a different, but equally special, side of Mount Etna – both metaphorically and geographically.

We are pleased to offer three of their single vineyards today. The “Pianta” is white: Carricante (plus a few other indigenous grapes) grown on the side of a volcanic crater! The Ciro Biondi family has farmed it for over 200 years. It is almondine, intensely rich, and full of crystals. The San Nicolo is the red wine equivalent: Ungrafted Nerello Mascalese (80%) and Nerello Cappuccio (20%) grown on a crater that last exploded 12,000 years ago. The soils are rich in iron. It is a supreme example of the more elegant, perfumed side of Etna. One crater over you find Cisterna Fuori. The soils and grapes are the same but the temperature is a little cooler, resulting in a far more powerful wine. Drink these side by side and you’ll be astonished to see how little variations can really matter.

This is an example of a great wine being penalized, price-wise, for not coming from a "prestigious" DOC like Barolo or Brunello. Simply put, you cannot get quality of this level in those more famous villages at today’s prices:

Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso Cisterna Fuori 2020 - $59.99

Ciro Biondi Etna Rosso San Nicolo 2020 - $59.99

Ciro Biondi Etna Bianco Pianta 2020 - $54.99