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Photo of the 2021 Clos Cibonee Cuvée Tradition Rosé.

Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tradition Rosé

Provence rules the rosé world. Its lightly-colored, fragrant pink wines are the model for imitators the world over. But the real secrets to Provence's greatness aren't the things others can imitate: it's all about the terroir and tradition. 

Clos Cibonne wines are wonderful, wildly unique exceptions that prove the Provençal rule. This is not your mother’s porch pounder rosé, though it could be your grandmother’s or great grandmother's . . .if they happen to have been in Provence during the 1940s or ‘50s!

Unlike 99.5% of rosé from Provence, Cibonne produces wines made almost exclusively from Tibouren, a grape indigenous to Provence. Then, and this is really unheard of, the wines are aged in neutral barrels under fleurette (akin to flor in Jerez, or sous voile in the Jura) for up to a year. In a word this wine is an utter rarity.

The estate dates back to the late 18th century, but the grape they specialize in, Tibouren, is even more ancient. Local Provençal legend states that the grape was brought from Liguria, just a hop and a skip from the Côte d'Azur; recent studies have confirmed that Rossese is indeed genetically identical.

Like many families in the region, in the aftermath of the phylloxera, they ripped up their Tibouren and planted higher-yielding Mourvèdre. Quickly realizing their mistake, the family cut off the heads of the Mourvèdre grapes to graft their beloved Tibouren back on — after all, nothing could compare. 

The wines are spicy and earthy, with bright, clean flavors of orange peel and sea salt. The estate sits just 800 meters from the Mediterranean, and the salty breeze wafting in helps to protect the grapes, as well as impart a crisp, saline note. During harvest, the grapes are hand-picked in the cool of the morning; by lunchtime, the day's work is over and the bouillabaisse truck rolls in to feed the hungry workers. 

Clos Cibonne's are considered by many to be some of the world's finest rosé wines, and they certainly are some of the most unique. With its distinct mélange of flavors — sea breeze, red fruit, that special savory note imparted by its flor aging — we're happy to drink this pink wine year-round and with any number of cuisines, but the wine is of course quite limited. We get a few cases each vintage and that is it, so stock up today, because true to its uniqueness this is also a rosé that ages very well. 

Clos Cibonne, Côtes de Provence Tibouren Rosé 'Cuvée Tradition', 2021 Notes of barely-ripe strawberry dominate here, but there's are also beautifully intertwined notes of fresh cream, blood orange, thyme and ginger; the palate is lush and broad, with firm acidity indicating it could spend time in your cellar and come out even more refined.

This story was originally featured in our newsletter, where it was offered at a special subscribers-only discount. Subscribers get special offers, the first look at new discoveries, invites to events, and stories about wines and the artisans that make them.