I think it was Samuel Billaud who put me on to Cyril Gautheron, saying that if you like a chiselled mineral style of Chablis, then Cyril is the man to go to. I did, and I found a great deal to like.

 
– Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Samuel Billaud is just about the hottest star in Chablis today, so no wonder Jasper Morris took his advice and went straight to Cyril. If anything, the surprise is that someone as knowledgeable as Jasper Morris wasn’t already all over this great talent. 

But Burgundy is like that. Even for the acknowledged masters, there’s always something new to learn, always an old lesson to be revisited, re-examined, re-learned. And that’s what we have for you today: an incredible reminder of the thrilling differences and similarities of Chablis’ three tiers. 

The essence of Chablis – the thing that sets it apart from all other Burgundies – is its stony soul. The appellation is defined by the Kimmeridgian marls of clay and limestone (flecked with ancient, fossilized seashells) that sit over limestone subsoils. That soil, together with Chablis’ northern climate, make wines that are electric with acidity and minerality. 

Except when they do something else.

And when is that? Well, as you go up the ladder from the Village wines through the Premier Crus to the Grand Crus, you find sites that get more sunshine and more ripeness. Yes, they have supremely stony soils, and the wines retain all that mineral goodness. 

But on the Grand Cru slope, with sun beating down, the grapes get a ripeness that complements the minerality, and a depth that lets them age for many years. They aren’t less mineral (to the contrary!)– but they are just, generally, more. More fruit, more weight, more depth and especially, more specific terroir expression. 

Cyril and his father, Alain, bottle the full range of Chablis’ voices. You can compare the straightforward mineral and fruit thrill of the Vieilles Vignes Chablis, which has soaked up all that limestone goodness. Then compare it to the Premier Crus side by side: Montee de Tonerre, Chablis’ most powerful Premier Cru, and Vaucoupin, an electric and detailed Premier. Then, when you’re good and ready, taste the Grand Cru Preuses, with its generous mix of stone fruit and citrus, mineral and spice. This is a wine that will hit every note over the course of its life (even if that life lasts, as far as you’re concerned, just one night!).

Gautheron Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2023 - $36.99
Morris loved the wine (gave 89-92 points) and it’s only gotten better since then, with the oak integrating and the flavors coming together. Said MJ: “Made from 65+ year old vines. 80% made in tank, 20% in barrels, blend made up for tasting. Fine pale lemon yellow. The oak dumbs down the nose while reinforcing the palate. Fresh lemon notes on top of the orchard fruit, a solid base without overly sunny generosity.”

Gautheron Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2022 - $54.99
This is the most powerful of the Premiers and is starting to drink beautifully.

Gautheron Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 2022 - $46.99
All has been made in stainless steel. The bouquet offers greengage fruit, certainly not overripe. Good tension, with lemon and lime, a little youthful bitterness, very promising in its classical Vaucoupin style.” (JM: 91-94) 

Gautheron Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2022 - $109.99
“Pretty and lively lemon and lime with a stylish nose, reasonably accessible in white orchard fruit, not yet fully detailed. Spicy behind and now with some much richer fruit, certainly fresh apricots, and a start of peaches. Very juicy and delicious.” (92-94 pts)