Last week we talked about Vacheron, one of the very top names in the village of Sancerre. But Sancerre, the AOC, is made up of many different villages, and to some Sancerre-drinkers, the greatest stuff is actually produced to the west of Sancerre in a village that is better-known to non-Sancerre-drinkers for its goat cheese: Chavignol.

Chavignol is special because it is here that you find the greatest concentration in its soils of limestone from the kimmeridgian geologic age. So what? Well, that happens to be the same soil type that you find in Chablis, and like there, it gives wines a very distinctive mineral quality that sets it apart from other wines made with exactly the same grape (compare, for example, Chablis with Meursault!).

The other neat thing about Chavignol is that it is much less dominated by the large concerts in the Sancerre AOC that churn out high volumes of boring Sauvignon Blanc. Here, the small-scale artisan is supreme, and exactly five of them have become famous. There is Vatan, Thomas-Labaille, the two Cotat cousins (Francois and Pascal), and the focus of this article, Gerard Boulay.

While ordinary Sancerre is an excellent bistro wine or simple aperitif, artisanal Sancerre from Chavignol should be thought of more like a serious, collectable white akin to Chassagne Montrachet. The wines age beautifully – as Boulay proved to us once by opening up a vertical of his wines going back to 1961! It turns out that 50 year-old Sancerre can be absolutely exquisite.

Unfortunately, we don’t have any of that to offer you, and aged Sancerre is almost impossible to find in the marketplace. Even young Sancerre at this level of quality has become hard to find, as the likes of Vatan and Cotat have gone completely cult. What you can do is buy these beautiful gems from Gerard Boulay and put them in your own cellar. You won’t be disappointed.

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Tradition 2022 - $37.99
Boulay's Sancerre is anything but "basic". Perfectly balanced between bright, energetic fruit and zesty, saline minerals, this is Sauvignon Blanc as it was truly meant to be.

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Les Monts Damnes 2022 - $65.99
Boulay makes really pretty Sancerre, even from these 'damned' slopes of Chavignol.

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu 2022 - $70.99
The Clos de Beaujeu is among the most historic sites in the village of Chavignol. In the 14th century the Clos de Beaujeu supplied the Cathedral of Bourges with white wine. At that time, Sancerre was famous for it's red wines. Boulay's Clos de Beaujeu is a richer, denser step up from the Chavignol village wine.

Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Cote 2022 - $70.99
Gerard's old vine parcel in La Cote produces a wine of incredible precision, power and laser sharp minerality, Boulay's signature style!

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2020 - $74.99
From 50-75 year old vines located in the sweet spot of the Mont Dam­nés vineyard (bottom of the slope, near Clos La Neore of Vatan), this is often the most powerful wine from Boulay's lineup. Vintage 2005 was the inaugural release.

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2022 - $82.99
The most powerful and complex wine from Boulay's lineup, with an incredible intensity of fruit and a strong mineral core. Definitely one to put away and follow for years to come.