What is a perfect white wine? In on warm evening late in the summer, it will be a wine that is effortless. It will be the wine that can be invisible: so drinkable that it seemingly disappears without notice; so unfussy that nobody will feel compelled to discuss it. And yet so delicious—and just complex enough—that if anyone cares to stop and think it will be well worth the moment.

Yes, one possible perfect white is Chardonnay. Not necessarily Californian Chardonnay or fancy Burgundy, which might be a little heavy or a little fussy. But a Mâcon.

Not just any Mâcon, but a Mâcon from one of the greatest masters of Chardonnay, Dominique Lafon. He is a famed Meursault producer, but had the good sense many years ago to open up shop in the Mâcon, that southern region of Burgundy known for oceans of cheap Chardonnay.

Much Mâcon is grocery store quality, but of course Lafon had other sorts of wine in mind for this venture. The Mâcon happens to have incredible terroir, with limestone rich soils littered with marine fossils. When made by a Chardonnay master, you get excellent wine at very reasonable prices. It is fruitier and less structured than a wine from Meursault, but that’s what we mean by unfussy. But don’t worry, that terroir ensures complex minerality that harkens Chablis, keeping things fresh and interesting.

This week we offer his Macon-Villages. It’s a blend from different vineyards, but all are farmed biodynamically and vine age is 30 years+. The wine is raised only in extra-large barrels to avoid oakiness. Really, it is perfect!

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon-Villages 2022 - $28.99