The wonderfully briney, complex whites of Muscadet remain some of the most underappreciated wines in the world. We’re not complaining, though — this lack of hype keeps first-rate examples insanely affordable even when they come from the best names in the region.

Case in point: You can taste the fabulous Briords Cuvée Vielles Vignes from Domaine de la Pépière, a great bottling from arguably Muscadet’s finest producer, for less than $25 with today's discounting. This biodynamic-certified 3-hectare lieu-dit is the estate's oldest, boasting 60- to 70-year massale-selection vines on granite and sandy clay.

Pépière's wines have a lot going on in them. To get the full effect, decant. We've found that even though the wines always taste delicious upon opening, they find another gear (more salt, more rocks, more precision) with a few hours of air, and they hold up very well on day two. That's particularly true with Briords, perhaps their most structured, rich, and intense bottling, and this wine in particular rewards a patient decanting.

Or you can cellar it — an often-overlooked aspect of Muscadet, perhaps due to, again, its unbelievable affordability. Oystery, earthy, and even absinthe-y flavors can emerge with tertiary development over 10 years, 20 years or more, as we've found with Briords during a few memorable library tastings. But drink it tonight and it will ring as purely and truly as ever of the profound beauty of Muscadet: a gem hiding in plain sight for those in the know.

Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Briords 2023 - $24.99