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San Lorenzo: Mountain Nebbiolo from an Ancient Convent

San Lorenzo: Mountain Nebbiolo from an Ancient Convent

 

This is where nuns make Nebbiolo


When wine lovers think Nebbiolo, they think Piedmont—Barolo, Barbaresco, and the rolling hills of the Langhe. More adventurous wine lovers are also aware of the more mountainous Nebbiolo that is proven north of this region in what is known as the Alto Piemonte. 

 

But adventurers can go in another direction instead to find Nebbiolo: towards Lombardy's alpine terrain. Here, where Nebbiolo is called Chiavennasca, vines cling to terraced slopes in the shadow of the Alps, producing wines with the elegance and structure of their Piedmontese cousins but with a distinctive high-altitude freshness. And nowhere is this more compelling than at Convento San Lorenzo, where nuns have been making wine for nearly a millennium.  

Yes, you read that correctly: this is nun-made wine from a convent dating back to the 11th century. The Benedictine sisters of San Lorenzo join an illustrious tradition of monastic winemaking that includes Burgundy's Clos de Vougeot (founded by Cistercian monks in the 12th century) and Germany's Kloster Eberbach. But while those historic estates have long since passed into secular hands, San Lorenzo remains an active religious community—one that happens to produce extraordinary wine.

The sisters tend approximately 15 acres of steep terraced vineyards with the same devotion they bring to prayer, crafting wines that speak eloquently of faith, place, and patience.

Rosso di Valtellina Vesper 2023 is your introduction to the genre: ultra-fresh, approachable Nebbiolo that's delicious right now. Think bright cherry fruit, alpine herbs, and that characteristic Nebbiolo transparency, but without the tannins that require years of cellaring. This is casual mountain Nebbiolo at its finest—perfect for weeknight pasta or charcuterie.

Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva 2019 steps up the ambition considerably. Sassella is Valtellina's most acclaimed sub-zone, a steep south-facing amphitheater where ancient stone terraces trap heat and reflect sunlight onto the vines. The rocky, mineral-rich soils produce Nebbiolo with remarkable depth and structure—wines that combine alpine freshness with serious aging potential. This Riserva has been aged for five years before release, showing the elegant complexity that makes Sassella Valtellina's answer to Barolo.

Sforzato Ventum 2019 is something else entirely: a style of wine produced nowhere else in the world. "Sforzato" (meaning "forced") refers to the ancient practice of air-drying harvested grapes for several months before fermentation—similar to Amarone production in the Veneto, but here applied to Nebbiolo. The result is a powerful, concentrated wine with dried fruit intensity, hints of Alpine spice, and a velvety richness that's utterly unique to this corner of the Alps.

The sisters of San Lorenzo have been perfecting their craft for centuries, and it shows in every bottle. These are wines that honor both tradition and terroir, proving that Valtellina offers a distinct and worthy alternative to the more famous Nebbiolo regions of Piedmont.

Convento San Lorenzo Rosso di Valtellina Vesper 2023 - $29.99

Convento San Lorenzo Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva 2019 - $69.99

Convento San Lorenzo Valtellina Sforzato Ventum 2019 - $76.99

 

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