If you ever need to convince someone how different biodynamic farming is than conventional, you should take them to visit the Gautherots’ vineyards at Champagne Vouette et Sorbée.

Bertrand Gautherot is a great winemaker. But... Read More

If you ever need to convince someone how different biodynamic farming is than conventional, you should take them to visit the Gautherots’ vineyards at Champagne Vouette et Sorbée.

Bertrand Gautherot is a great winemaker. But he is first and foremost a farmer. He keeps chickens and cows and not just to follow organic and biodynamic principles; he wants to minimize any inputs that don't come from the farm itself, because they could detract from the terroir.

You can see the rewards of Bertrand’s fanatical devotion in his soils and vines. Pick up a handful of his soil and it's dark, loosely packed, and full of life—it even smells alive. And his vines prosper: they're deeply colored and look strong.

But his neighbor’s vines, which get chemical sprays and fertilizers, grow in gray soils that are so hard-packed that you couldn't pick a handful up if you wanted to. There’s no life in them—nothing crawling in them because the pesticides kill everything indiscriminately. And the vines are tall, but listless. They both have the same incredible terroir. But only Bertrand grows vines that can dig deep and really express it.

Of course, Vouette & Sorbée wouldn't have become one of the most sought-after grower Champagnes if Bertrand didn't know what to do with the incredible fruit he grows. But he does, and the wines are amazing.