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Bottle of Bibi Graetz Testamatta Rosso 2020-Red Wine-Flatiron SF

Bibi Graetz Testamatta Rosso 2020

Red Wine from Tuscany, Italy
by Bibi Graetz
$69.99
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What is this wine?
Bibi Graetz has become one of Tuscany’s most celebrated and unconventional winemakers, crafting wines from old-vine, high-altitude Sangiovese around Florence. Testamatta—meaning “crazy head”—is his flagship wine, 100% Sangiovese sourced from some of the region’s oldest vineyards (up to 100 years old). Fermented in open-top barrels with native yeasts and aged in neutral oak, it reflects Graetz’s minimalist approach and focus on purity. The 2020 vintage was warm but balanced, yielding structured wines with generous fruit and freshness.

Why get this wine?
Testamatta has become a modern icon of Tuscany, prized for its combination of elegance, depth, and age-worthiness. Unlike many “Super Tuscans,” it relies entirely on Sangiovese, highlighting the grape’s finesse rather than masking it with international varieties or heavy oak. The 2020 release is already regarded as a standout vintage, making it a must for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

What does this wine taste like?
Aromatic red cherry, raspberry, and plum with notes of rose petal, spice, and tobacco. Silky yet powerful, with fine-grained tannins, lively acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish.

When should you drink this wine?
Best from 2025–2040. Decant if drinking young. Excellent with bistecca alla Fiorentina, roast lamb, or truffle pasta.

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Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 94
"Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous." -Eric Guido

Robert Parker

RP 95
"Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch." -Monica Larner

Decanter

D 97
"Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a lovely fragrance and expression. Lifted and bright, this has such a beautiful delicacy to it, a creamy, chalkiness comes from the fine tannins with bright, succulent strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You feel the savoury side too, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herb aspect which counter the fruit and the high acidity. I adore the finesse here, the sharp fruit giving the energy and the chalky texture giving the layers. Feels well controlled, powerful yet delivered with poise. It doesn't have so much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuance of flavour is thrillingly captivating and this has a long lifted finish. A contemplative wine that keeps you wanting more and more. Made in new winery facilities in Fiesole. Grapes were picked from the best six vineyards; Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena with each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to get the perfect ripening points. Natural and indigenous fermentation in open top barriques (225l) for smaller parcels and 50hl cask or stainless steel tanks for larger plots. After 7-10 days of maceration, the parcels are moved into old barriques and 50hl casks for 20 months."

Wine Enthusiast

WE 93
"The subtle nose on this wine releases oak notes first, then cherries, soy sauce, herbs, pencil shavings and eraser, and finally a little orange peel. Graphite and soil come through on the palate alongside more cherries, orange and dried herbs. Tannins hold their shape but let the fruit speak, while acid cuts right down the tongue."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Sangiovese

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied