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Domaine Duroche Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

$599.99
NET

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Pierre Duroché's family has been bottling their own wines since the 1930s, when all but a handful of Burgundy growers — families like Duroché's neighbors, the Rousseaus—sold their produce to negociants. But the pioneering American wine importers, Colonel Wildman and Frank Schoonmaker, who made international stars of the Rousseaus (et al.) skipped his address. The Duroché wines remained a French-only phenom.

That's beginning to change. Just a few years ago a member of the contemporary club of elite importers (thank you Doug Polaner) started importing the wines. Daniel Johnnes introduced the Duroché name at his La Paulée events. American Burgundy-lovers have caught up fast.

Whatever it is that drives Pierre up the faces of sheer cliffs, also drives him to work obsessively in the vineyard and in the cellar. The fastidiousness that keeps him alive when climbing translates to elegant wines with gorgeous fruit and pure terroir expressions. They hit a stylistic bullseye for today's Burgundy drinkers: subtle oak; just a touch reductive; red and blue fruited, with maybe a touch of orange; and always, the terroir. No wonder Duroché is suddenly one of the most talked-about “new” producers on the market.

Duroché has tiny plots in Premier and Grand Crus, but you don't have to shell out for the big bottles to see what all the fuss is about. His ability to make village Gevrey-Chambertin taste so extraordinary and distinct really sets him apart. Of course, this wouldn't be possible without his fantastic terroir: this is not across-the-road Gevrey, but good sites in Brochon, with plenty of old vines.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 96
"The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a superb bouquet of perfumed iris and violet flowers with delineated red berry fruit. This blossoms in the glass. The medium-bodied palate has a sensual opening, quite plush red berry fruit and fine detail. It is quite peppery in style with a long, tender finish. Very precise - like a Swiss watch." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 95
"The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is likely to emerge as the finest that Pierre Duroché has produced to date. Bursting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cassis, peonies, orange zest and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and complete, with a suave, seamless profile combined with unusual depth and plenitude. Pierre Duroché has produced another superlative set of wines in 2022. While yields are down after hail struck the Combe Lavaux and the Brochon side of Gevrey-Chambertin, quality is undimmed, the vintage lending itself to the domaine's understated, delicate style. As I've written before, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage,"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—and to that end, he's pragmatically raising stakes and trellising wires, so he has the option to hedge in a rainy, disease-prone vintage (such as 2021!) but can also opt not to in sunny, warm years. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification."

Decanter

D 96
"Lovely and expressive, the Charmes-Chambertin from Duroché features bright black cherry fruit with notes of violets, earth, and spice. Despite the heat of the year, the wine has a vibrant freshness; the grippy tannins drive the sensation to a lingering finish. The grapes come from several parcels, all located in Aux Charmes; they are mostly destemmed and carefully fermented with a delicate extraction. The result is precision and purity of fruit that is truly delicious."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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