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Bottle of Domaine Duroche Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques 2022-Red Wine-Flatiron SF

Domaine Duroche Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques 2022

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Domaine Duroche
$379.99
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Pierre Durochรฉ's family has been bottling their own wines since the 1930s, when all but a handful of Burgundy growers โ€” families like Durochรฉ's neighbors, the Rousseausโ€”sold their produce to negociants. But the pioneering American wine importers, Colonel Wildman and Frank Schoonmaker, who made international stars of the Rousseaus (et al.) skipped his address. The Durochรฉ wines remained a French-only phenom.

That's beginning to change. Just a few years ago a member of the contemporary club of elite importers (thank you Doug Polaner) started importing the wines. Daniel Johnnes introduced the Durochรฉ name at his La Paulรฉe events. American Burgundy-lovers have caught up fast.

Whatever it is that drives Pierre up the faces of sheer cliffs, also drives him to work obsessively in the vineyard and in the cellar. The fastidiousness that keeps him alive when climbing translates to elegant wines with gorgeous fruit and pure terroir expressions. They hit a stylistic bullseye for today's Burgundy drinkers: subtle oak; just a touch reductive; red and blue fruited, with maybe a touch of orange; and always, the terroir. No wonder Durochรฉ is suddenly one of the most talked-about โ€œnewโ€ producers on the market.

Durochรฉ has tiny plots in Premier and Grand Crus, but you don't have to shell out for the big bottles to see what all the fuss is about. His ability to make village Gevrey-Chambertin taste so extraordinary and distinct really sets him apart. Of course, this wouldn't be possible without his fantastic terroir: this is not across-the-road Gevrey, but good sites in Brochon, with plenty of old vines.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 92
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a pretty nose with wonderfully transparent wild strawberry and raspberry aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit. Thereโ€™s fine backbone here, taut, growing a tad spicy towards the finish. It needs a little more grip and depth (like the Etelois)." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 93
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques exhibits aromas of dark berries, licorice, smoked squab and loamy soil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, open and expressive palate framed by powdery tannins. This was the one cuvรฉe that wasn't entirely put together when I tasted it. Pierre Durochรฉ has produced another superlative set of wines in 2022. While yields are down after hail struck the Combe Lavaux and the Brochon side of Gevrey-Chambertin, quality is undimmed, the vintage lending itself to the domaine's understated, delicate style. As I've written before, Durochรฉ has been experimenting with "tressage,"โ€”rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming themโ€”and to that end, he's pragmatically raising stakes and trellising wires, so he has the option to hedge in a rainy, disease-prone vintage (such as 2021!) but can also opt not to in sunny, warm years. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigรฉage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification."

Decanter

D 95
"Durochรฉ has two cuvรฉes of Lavaut; Pierre takes enough of the oldest vines (planted in 1923) to cull out a single barrel for a 'Vieilles Vignes' cuvรฉe. If you can't find that, this wine will do nicely with its dark blackberry fruit and floral notes, silky texture, refreshingly crisp freshness, and tannic grip. This delicious wine should show well shortly after release but can undoubtedly be cellared for a decade or more if you can avoid drinking it now."

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Customer Reviews

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