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Famille Mousse Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Hommage a Cuisles NV

$109.99
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This bottle is an official Extra Brut selection. It was featured in October 2024.

The Moussé family is based in the Marnes Valley, where Pinot Meunier is the most important grape. Meunier has long been considered the least prestigious of Champagne's three grapes. But the Moussé family has been growing grapes in their little village of Cuisles since 1629, and they knew not to turn their back on Meunier no matter what fickle market pressures suggested. Cuisses, you see, has a terroir that is unique in all of Champagne: a thick band of green clay, “Illite,” that lies under the varied superficial soil types. That “Illite” soil gives the Meunier an almost Chardonnay-like lift and the sort of refined texture that Meunier was traditionally reputed not to produce. 

The village is so important to them that when the family decided to do a special bottling to celebrate the 100th anniversary of their founding as a standalone winery, they named it a Hommage to Cuisle. Every choice helps that Cuisles terroir to sing. The farming is organic. The wine is fermented and aged in steel, preserving every bit of that lift. The dosage is so low (at 1g/L) that they could call the wine "Brut Zero" if they wanted to. But like a pinch of salt on dish, this imperceptibly tiny amount of sugar draws out the wine's many, complex and riveting flavors.

Pinot Meunier is no longer looked down upon. Jérôme Prévost's Meuniers are among the most sought after wines in the world. But they are so rare they are practically novelties. Moussé, for now at least, is a proof that a grower that sticks to its guns can make perfectly terroir-transparent -- and almost shockingly beautiful -- Champagnes.

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Pinot Meunier has always played "third fiddle" to Champagne's power couple, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Growers always liked having it around because it buds later than PN and Chard, which means it's less likely to be damaged by the late frosts that can hit Champagne so far north--especially in the Marne Valley. For growers it meant diversification.

For drinkers, on the other hand, it was an unglamorous variety that often came across as rustic or rough-edged. But that perception has been changing. Culty producers like Jerome Prevost and Raphael Bereche make highly sought-after Meunier-based wines. And even below the superstar level there's a whole generation of small growers who have started putting out really delicious Meunier-focused champagnes that don't break the bank.

Cedric Moussé is a classic example. When he took over the family estate in 2003 he was the 12th generation to run things. He practices organic farming and makes wines that are precise, savory, and bright-fruited, with no oak influence. They show Meunier's pretty side: purity of fruit, white flowers, subtle herbal tones, and they show its terroir transparency, with clear mineral signatures.

Professional Reviews

Wine Spectator

WS 90
"A fresh Champagne, with savory notes of toasted almond and smoke meeting blackberry and orange pith accents on a soft, cottony palate."

What importer Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine...

Practicing organic
100% Meunier
100% 2020
A special wine to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of the domaine
From the village of Cuisles
Terroir of green clay and limestone marl
Yes malo
Fermented and aged in stainless steel
Aged 24 months on the lees
Dosage: 1g/L

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Crisp , Fruity , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Champagne Extra Brut , Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Customer Reviews

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