Laherte Frères has long been a champion of Champagne’s forgotten grape varieties, and their Petit Meslier bottling is a rare and remarkable expression of one of the region’s most elusive cépages. Petit Meslier, an ancient variety prized for its high acidity and aromatic intensity, is nearly extinct in Champagne, yet Aurélien Laherte has embraced its uniqueness, cultivating a small parcel in the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay. Grown organically and biodynamically, these low-yielding vines are carefully tended to capture the grape’s crisp, linear profile. Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts, and aging takes place in neutral oak barrels, allowing the wine’s pure character to shine. Bottled with minimal dosage, this is a Champagne that speaks directly to its terroir.

Bright and electric, this cuvée bursts with aromas of green apple, fresh lime, and white flowers, layered with subtle notes of wild herbs and crushed stones. The naturally high acidity of Petit Meslier gives the wine an intense, racy energy, balanced by a creamy mousse and a whisper of oxidative depth from its time in barrel. On the palate, citrus zest and pear skin mingle with a saline minerality, leading to a finish that is long, chiseled, and deeply refreshing. There’s a subtle herbal complexity—think verbena and fennel—that sets this apart from more conventional Blanc de Blancs Champagnes.

With its piercing freshness and mineral drive, Petit Meslier is a brilliant match for briny oysters, razor clams, or delicately prepared sashimi. It also pairs beautifully with herb-driven dishes, such as ceviche with cilantro or a simple goat cheese tart. This is a fascinating glimpse into Champagne’s past, brought vividly to life by one of the region’s most forward-thinking producers.