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Bottle of Lopez de Heredia Rioja Crianza Vina Cubillo 2016-Red Wine-Flatiron SF

Lopez de Heredia Rioja Crianza Vina Cubillo 2016

Red Wine from Rioja, Spain
by Lopez de Heredia
$29.99
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One of the many clichés employed by the wine world is the adjective “traditional”. However, there is one winery where that adjective very appropriately applies. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the more than 130 years since its founding. It occupies the same historic cellars and unlike most of their competitors, which are now owned by outside investors, López de Heredia is owned, and every detail of its operation is handled by the family who founded it.

Due to the way the industry has evolved in Rioja, most bodegas buy grapes from dozens of small growers, but not López de Heredia. They own every inch of the vineyards that supply their wines. In addition, they eschew any use of commercial yeasts and rely only natural yeasts present in their ancient cellar.

A visit to Lopez makes this all very clear. When you descend into the cellar you are met with a rush of cool air tinged with the telltale odor of penicillin. Carved out of solid rock, fifty feet underground, the cellars are at a constant 54 degrees, perfectly situated for the aging of wine and the cultivation of friendly microbes. The walls are black and wet with the occasional patch of white mold. Inside you will find 12,900 American oak barrels and 72 ancient fermenters as well as one of the worlds great collection of cobwebs.

The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation—Maria José, Mercedes and Julio César. Yet, still nothing changes. In fact, these three are as philosophically committed to the winery’s traditions as their parents and grandparents were before them.

The wines are always masterful but in certain vintages can be transcendent. Lopéz labels their wines in all three rioja categories, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Technically almost all of their wines meet the regions criteria for Gran Reserva but as usual they do it the old ways, making Gran Reserva only in exceptional vintage.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 94
"The 2016 Crianza Viña Cubillo, from Haro in Rioja Alta, underwent a three-year aging process in used oak barrels. Garnet in color, the wine reveals enticing notes of cherry marmalade, complemented by herbal, mint-like hints. Dry, intense and fairly grippy, the 2016 also features a mild chalky texture. Firm and juicy with a vibrant core, it presents itself as a flavorful red in its primary state. I anticipate that further bottle-aging will unlock deeper complexities, and I look forward to revisiting it in the years to come." -Joaquín Hidalgo

Robert Parker

RP 94
"The 2016 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza was surprising, spectacular, elegant, clean and fresh like few vintages before. It was a superb year, with quality, quantity and freshness. It's quite the opposite from the previous 2015, which was a much warmer and riper year. The 2016s have moderate alcohol and especially the perception of less ripeness (even though the alcohol is very similar). It feels very young, still quite primary. Mercedes explained, "Cubillas, a 24-hectare plot, is a vineyard that could produce Gran Reserva wines. It's a very good vineyard, but we would miss the Crianza in our range". In fact, the comment was that this vintage is even a challenge for the Viña Tondonia red "because of its price." It is indeed a bargain. "But it doesn't have the finesse of Tondonia," concluded María José." -Luis Gutiérrez

Wine Spectator

WS 90
"Leather, tar and spice box aromas offer a fragrant overtone for this fresh, medium-bodied red. Fine, taut tannins sculpt flavors of dried cherry and cranberry, singed orange peel and cured tobacco. Silky on the palate, this opens nicely in the glass. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo." -Alison Napjus

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Red Blend , Tempranillo

  • Vintage

    2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Fruity , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied