We previously described Peter Lauer's Barrel X as a pantry staple—something you should just have on hand for daily life. But life does not end with staples. While the Barrel X is designed for easy, uncomplicated refreshment, Lauer’s Fass series specific bottlings represent the serious, granular study of the Saar valley’s terroir. 

Florian Lauer, who now runs this historic estate, has become the de facto leader of the "new" Saar, championing a style that diverges from his famous neighbor, Egon Müller. Where Müller seeks ethereal sweetness, Lauer chases texture and a "gastronomic" dryness, fermenting his wines with wild yeasts in old fuder casks until they find their own natural balance.

This release is particularly emotional because the 2024 vintage was born from a near-catastrophe. A devastating April frost swept through the Saar, claiming up to 80% of the potential harvest in some vineyards. It was a year where nature seemingly tried to cancel the vintage entirely, yet the vines that survived produced fruit of diamond-like intensity. These are not the tropical, opulent Rieslings of warmer years; they are svelte, crystalline, and packed with a "shell-like" salinity. The scarcity of these bottles is real, making the fact that we secured a decent allocation feel like a minor miracle.

The lineup begins with a piece of family history: the Fass 6 "Senior." Named after Florian's grandfather, who would roam the cellar in the 1950s and mark his favorite barrel "Senior" for personal consumption, this wine is the spiritual heart of the estate. It usually sits in that "feinherb" sweet spot—dry-tasting but with just enough fruit to buffer the electric Saar acidity. In 2024, that tension is magnified, offering a wine that feels like biting into a crisp green apple sprinkled with sea salt. It is joined by the Fass 3 Ayler, which leans slightly more into the off-dry style, presenting a joyful, charming expression of the village fruit that is impossible to dislike.

Moving up the slope, we find two distinct personalities of the Ayler Kupp hill. The Fass 12 Unterstenberg comes from the lower portion of the vineyard, where the soil retains more water. This geography translates directly to the glass, giving the wine a creamy, broad texture and a slightly richer profile that feels comforting and substantial. It stands in stark contrast to the Fass 111 Schonfels, which is sourced from a terrifyingly steep, cliff-like parcel of ungrafted vines. The Schonfels is dramatic and vertical, smelling of crushed stones and wild herbs, delivering a sensory experience that is less about fruit and more about the sheer rock face from which it was born.

These wines are survivors. They carry the story of a difficult year, yet they show no signs of trauma, only resilience and brilliance. Because of the frost, quantities are significantly lower than usual, and once they disappear from the market, they will be gone for good. Whether you choose the history of the Senior or the drama of the Schonfels, you are drinking one of the most hard-won vintages in recent German history.

Peter Lauer Riesling Senior Ayler Fass 6 2024 - $35.99

Peter Lauer Riesling Feinherb Fass 3 Ayler 2024 - $41.99

Peter Lauer Riesling Fass 12 Unterstenberg 2024 - $59.99

Peter Lauer Riesling Kabinett Fass 111 Schonfels 2024 - $63.99