There is a famous quote from Robert Parker that has followed this estate for decades. He famously declared that if he were forced to drink only one Brunello di Montalcino for the rest of his life, it would be Pertimali. This was always a somewhat shocking admission, because Parker built his reputation on loving massive, modern, oak-driven wines. Pertimali, run by the Sassetti family, is none of those things. It is a staunch, unwavering traditionalist.

The reason Pertimali unites lovers of all styles—from the die-hard traditionalists to the modernists—is its unique geography. The estate sits on the Montosoli Hill, a specific ridge north of Montalcino that is widely considered the region's unofficial "Grand Cru." This location is the magic trick. Because it is north of the town, it is cooler, preserving the violet aromatics and high acidity that Sangiovese needs. But because the vineyard is a natural amphitheater facing south, it captures the sun, giving the wine a richness and velvet texture that the austere wines of the north usually lack.

It is the goldilocks of Brunello: it has the structure of the old school and the flesh of the new school.

The 2020 vintage is a fascinating chapter for the estate. While Pertimali is famous for being a "beast" in its youth—often requiring a decade to unfurl—the 2020 is surprisingly charming right out of the gate. It was a warm, solar vintage, which has softened the usually stern tannins of the Montosoli hill into something silkier and more approachable. You still get the classic notes of wild black cherry, truffle, and pure earth, but you don’t have to wait ten years to enjoy them. This is that rare vintage of Pertimali that offers immediate gratification, and wine that is truly for everyone:

Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino 2020 - $59.99