The village of Neive, just a few miles east of Barbaresco, is not the most visited in this world renowned wine region, but it is one of my favorites. Here you find the famous Santo Stefano vineyard that Bruno Giacosa used to craft some of the most iconic Nebbiolo of a generation, and just down the road from there is Serraboella and the equally important, if sometimes overlooked, vineyard of Sori Paitin. 

Since 1796 the Pesquera-Elia family has been perfecting the art of making world class Nebbiolo from the special terroirs of Serraboella and Sori Paitin. They were among the first to estate bottle their wine and began to export commercially in 1898, long before some of the current producers in Barbaresco existed. Over the past century they have continued to expand and improve, with current patriarch Secondo building a new cellar and replanting much of the vineyards using massale selection in the early 1960’s. 

Secondo’s sons, Giovanni and Silvano, and grandson Luca now oversee the vineyards and the cellar work. The farming is fully organic (recently certified) with some biodynamic principles applied too. In the cellar they are purely traditional, though they did experiment with some modern style techniques in the ‘90’s, using long macerations and aging exclusively in large, Austrian oak barrels, mostly Stockinger.

Paitin makes just three Barbarescos, an old vines reserve that is released after long aging in barrels and bottle, and the two cuvées we have on offer today: Serraboella and Sori Paitin. The Serraboella is a single parcel in the cru that surrounds the winery and is a classic, elegant take on the special terroir of this commune. The Sori Paitin is the jewel and showcases the power that Neive is known for, often being compared more to the wines of Barolo than other Barbaresco.

2016 is a knock-out vintage in Piedmont and we have been touting its greatness for several months now. I think that Paitin has done an outstanding job and these wines will age gracefully for many years. Given that the pricing is a downright steal, click through the links below to place your order! As always, case discounts are applied at checkout. 

Note: I’m including Galloni’s tasting notes, though it appears the wines were a bit closed when he tasted them a year ago. I just tasted them about a week ago and they are both much more open, especially the Serraboella. Though of course they will need time to really come alive. 

Paitin, Barbaresco Serraboella, 2016

“The 2016 Barbaresco Serraboella is bright, perfumed and very nicely lifted, with an attractive interplay of floral aromatics and textural depth. Mint, pine, kirsch, dried flowers and sweet tobacco are some of the nuances that emerge. The 2016 is tightly wound and classically austere in style, so it needs time in the bottle to unwind, but it has undoubtedly fine potential.”

Paitin, Barbaresco Sori Paitin, 2016

“The 2016 Barbaresco Sorì Paitin is powerful, but also quite reticent today. Dark cherry, menthol, licorice, sage and dried flowers are all found in a searing, intense Sorì Paitin that needs (time) to be at its best. Tannic and austere, the 2016 appears to be going through a closed phase, and yet it has a feeling of verticality and gravitas that is impossible to miss.”