The bottles with the most finesse and nuance, and which have drawn the most interest, are from Comando G, whose wines are now among the most compelling in Spain. -Eric Asimov, The New York Times

Winemakers Fernando Garcia and Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi have one weird trick for success: they hang out in the local taverns and drink beer with the village old-timers. Why? Because these old timers are the ones in the know about the region’s forgotten vineyards, who have fastidiously taken care of these brambly plots over the decades. After a few pints, Daniel and Fernando have been able to convince these old-timers to share these old-vine grapes, and some history.

These vines are old—some of them planted over a century ago. Over the last 100 years, many of the grapes grown on these steep granitic slopes were sold off to the cooperatives and turned into cheap, anonymous blends...but no longer.

Fernando and Daniel have been partners for a decade, crafting wines of ethereal beauty from high up in the Gredos mountains west of Madrid. They specialize in Garnacha, perhaps best known stateside as Grenache, but theirs is a totally different beast: instead of ramped up fruit and high alcohol, these two vignerons focus on the outstanding minerality their granite soils offer. Their wines are airy and silkily textured, and they’re remarkably floral, with notes of crushed rose petals and violets.

There’s a magical aspect to mountain wines like theirs, but their inspiration lies outside of their native Spain. Rather, they look to French producers of Grenache, including prestigious names like Château Rayas or Gramenon, whose wines reflect the same graceful polish. They have made great efforts to explore the greater world of winemaking traditions and technique, and while they know they’re not trying to conjure Spanish Barolo or Burgundy of the South, they are working with the same appreciation of terroir in mind.

We’ve loved these wines for several years, and we are not alone in our admiration. It’s always a joy to taste wines that are made by artisans with true passion and soul. As our allocations get smaller and smaller each year, we stock up as best we can. A pricing mistake by the importer allowed us to offer this at an artificially low price last time. While the price is a little higher this time around, it is worth more than every penny and you will still get it at the best price around. This is your last chance to get your hands on this phenomenal bottle.

Comando G, Vinos de Madrid Garnacha “La Bruja de Rozas“, 2021 $41.99 | This bottle makes it very clear that they are inspired by the French greats of Grenache, namely Rayas and Gramenon. Bruja de Rozas offers a similar sort of shimmering, luminous fruit (think candied cherry and orange zest), stony minerality and featherweight.The wine oozes with complex and tantalizing flavors of black fruit, red flower petals, cracked black pepper, and wet earth. A superlative wine from one of Spain's best!