Among lovers of cutting-edge Grower Champagne, the Aube is on the map largely thanks to Cedric Bouchard, whose single-vineyard, single-varietal wines helped redefine what grower Champagne could be. 

But in the same village of Celles-sur-Ource, on the same fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soils – soils that look more like Chablis than the Montagne de Reims – another voice is emerging: Julien Prélat. The connections between Cedric and Julien run deep. Yet, while Bouchard’s wines are some of the most allocated (and priciest) Champagnes around, Julien’s wines are still under the radar. That means we get to share two of his terroir-driven visions of the Kimmeridgian sites: one Blanc de Blanc and one Blanc de Noir. And at a reasonable price!

Julien is the third generation of his family to farm these slopes, but the first to bottle his own wines. His approach mirrors the grower ethos of Bouchard (one grape, one vineyard, one vintage) but with a personality that's distinctly his own. Where Bouchard was early to push boundaries (zero dosage, low pressure), Prélat seeks harmony and offers us a sense of classicism to balance the grower ethos. 

The contrast between today's two wines reveals just how expressive Kimmeridgian limestone can be. His Blanc de Blancs comes from Presle, a single site whose fossil-strewn soils (shared with Bouchard's great wines) lend Chardonnay a distinctive marine freshness and crystalline precision. Fermented with native yeasts and handled gently in both steel and old barrels, it shows the limestone's chalky minerality through a lens of citrus oils and sea spray. 

The Blanc de Noirs draws from Chantemerle's 1982-planted Pinot Noir vines on the same Kimmeridgian base, but here the limestone expresses itself more broadly, more saline and with echoes of Chablis on the super-long finish and a red tinge to the citrus and apple fruit that marks it unmistakably as a blanc de noir.

Both wines share Prélat's commitment to terroir clarity: native yeast fermentation, minimal intervention, and just enough dosage to achieve perfect balance without masking the limestone's voice. These are wines that will age beautifully but don't require patience: whether you're pairing them with oysters that echo their marine character or richer fare that plays against their bright acidity, they are delicious now.

Julien Prelat Champagne Blanc de Blancs Presle NV - $69.99
Pure mineral-driven Chardonnay expression, with crystalline precision and a long, mineral-driven finish that speaks directly to the fossil-rich soils. 3 g/L is just enough seasoning to bring the fruit into focus.

Julien Prelat Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Chantemerle NV - $69.99
100% Pinot Noir showing the broader, more saline side of Kimmeridgian limestone. Red-tinged citrus with subtle Chablis echoes on the remarkably long finish. 4 g/L.