If, like us, you are obsessed with limestone soils and their impact on wine, then your eyebrow surely gives a lift when it hears that there is a village in Catalonian France called “Calce”. That sounds a lot like “calcaire”, French for limestone, and is even closer to calç, which is the Catalonian word. And, of course, all of these names derive from the same Latin word, calx. 

It’s not words, of course, but the limestone itself that forms the through-line in today’s wines. The vines in and around Calce grow in lime-rich hills (with streaks of schist). One producer, Domaine Gauby, celebrates this in one of their cuvée names, with yet another variation on the root word: “Les Calcinaires”.

With that nod to terroir, Domaine Gauby sets the tone for this fairly wild corner of France. Gérard Gauby—and now the next generation—helped pivot Roussillon from big, oaky reds to lifted, biodynamic, low-makeup wines: whole clusters, concrete and large foudres, minimal new wood. The result is clarity over gloss and wines made for the table rather than the trophy shelf.

Les Calcinaires Rouge 2020 is the gateway Gauby: juicy yet stony, faintly herbal, and perfect with a slight chill. This is the bottle that wins over the whole table without trying. Already 5 years old, you’ll discover a few sips in that this is not as simple as all that easy pleasure might make you think.

The Côtes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2019, on the other hand, does not bother to hide its complexity. The old vines deliver dark fruit, wild thyme, black olive, and a cool mineral line (yep, that’s the limestone). Decant it and serve with something feastly (grilled lamb or mushrooms?). It’s layered but taut, serious without being heavy.

And don’t skip the white. Les Calcinaires Blanc 2020 is a Mediterranean classic in a crisp key—citrus and fennel, a little sea-breeze salinity, texture without weight. Crudo, aioli, grilled fish, or anything that saw good olive oil and fresh herbs.

Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Blanc 2020 - $34.99

Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Rouge 2020 - $37.99

Domaine Gauby Cotes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2019 - $54.99