Germany’s Baden region is home to some of the county’s most outstanding Pinot Noir. Stop snickering at the back of the class: this is not damning by faint praise!
True, Baden doesn't compete with Burgundy... Read More
Germany’s Baden region is home to some of the county’s most outstanding Pinot Noir. Stop snickering at the back of the class: this is not damning by faint praise!
True, Baden doesn't compete with Burgundy or the Sonoma Coast. But it is one of the world’s great homes to Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder, or "late Burgundy," as they call it). Especially up north, where the climate is cool but the Vosges Mountains shelter the vineyards from the cold, wet, continental winds.
Throw in limestone and loess soils and it's no wonder the best small producers can turn out Pinot Noirs of elegance, minerality and deft balance.
Shelter is a great, small producer. Husband and wife team, Hans-Bert and Silke Wolf, farm about four hectares up in that great North-Baden neighborhood.
Their vineyard and cellar work is naturally uncomplicated. No herbicides or pesticides. They hand-harvest their fruit, mostly (but maybe not always) destem it before a a short cold soak and a delicate press. They ferment in open-top vessels, and then transferred into almost entirely barrel, done. Classic, perfect Pinot Noir.
