True artisanal vignerons – those small-scale winemakers who oversee all aspects of wine production – may abound in Beaujolais or Burgundy, but in Bordeaux they’re much harder to find.

This is particularly true of the Médoc, whose hallowed gravels are dominated by large, well-established châteaux that seem to increase their holding with each passing year. This is particularly a shame given that the vines here grow in some of the greatest terroir in the world.

So when we come across exceptions, we celebrate. And we drink the wines!

Michel Theron, the one-man show behind Clos du Jaugueyron, can be applauded simply for his small scale of production. Or for his commitment to biodynamic farming, which is far more challenging – and quite a bit more rare – on the perpetually humid Left Bank than in most places.

But none of that would matter much if Theron wasn’t a supremely gifted winemaker. His wines exude the elegance and perfume that make great Bordeaux so breathtaking, admirably made with startlingly scant intervention in a small facility built into the side of his own family home.

Theron makes a few cuvées, even some site-specific wines, but today we focus on what might be the best deal in his line-up. It’s an Haut-Medoc, from just outside of Margaux’s borders. It is quite Margaux-like, and it is an especially fine wine in the great 2019 vintage.

Clos du Jaugueyron, Haut-Medoc, 2019 $54.99